Short answer: yes—if you prep correctly. Many Florida homes (especially those built before the early 2000s) still have oil-based enamel on trim, doors, and stair parts. Switching to today’s premium waterborne paints can look fantastic and hold up well in our climate—but only with the right cleaning, deglossing, and bonding primer. This guide shows you exactly how to do it for long-lasting results in Pinellas County.
Step 1: Confirm the Existing Paint Is Oil
Use the denatured alcohol test:
- Clean a small area with mild soap and water; dry.
- Rub with a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol (or household ammonia).
- Paint softens/transfers? Likely latex.
- No softening at all? Likely oil-based (alkyd).
If you’re still unsure, assume oil on older, glossy trim/doors and proceed with a bonding system.
Step 2: Florida-Smart Prep (This Is Where Jobs Succeed or Fail)
- Degrease thoroughly
Kitchens and baths collect aerosols and silicone residues that cause adhesion problems. Use a TSP substitute or manufacturer-approved cleaner; rinse and let dry. - Sand to degloss
Hand-sand with 180–220 grit until the sheen is uniformly dull. Vacuum and tack cloth the dust. - Spot repairs
Fill dings, sand smooth, and remove all dust. Caulk open seams with a paintable, high-quality caulk. - Control humidity
Keep indoor RH near 50% with AC or a dehumidifier so primers and finishes cure correctly in Florida air.
Step 3: Prime for Adhesion (Non-Negotiable Over Oil)
Apply a dedicated bonding primer designed to grip glossy, previously oil-based surfaces. Brush and roll thin, even coats and allow the full recoat window. On stubborn stains (water, tannin, smoke), spot prime with a stain blocker before the bonding primer or per data sheet.
Step 4: Choose the Right Topcoat
You have two excellent modern options:
Option A: Premium Waterborne Acrylic Urethane (Most Homes)
- Levels smoothly, non-yellowing, low odor.
- Great for trim, doors, and built-ins in living areas.
- Cures faster than traditional alkyd in Florida humidity.
Option B: Waterborne Alkyd/Hybrid Enamel (Highest Durability Feel)
- Alkyd-like hardness with water cleanup.
- Excellent for high-touch doors, kitchen/bath trim, stair rails.
- Slightly longer final cure; very durable after full hardening.
Avoid traditional oil/alkyd topcoats in bright interiors—they can yellow over time and dry slowly in humid months.
Quick Selector: Painting Over Oil in Florida
Situation Prime? Recommended Topcoat Notes Glossy, older trim/doors Yes (bonding primer) Waterborne acrylic urethane Best overall look + non-yellowing High-wear doors/handrails Yes Waterborne alkyd/hybrid enamel Harder, enamel-like finish Stained/tannin-prone wood Spot stain block + bonding primer Waterborne alkyd or acrylic urethane Test for bleed; tint primer if going light Bathroom/laundry trim Yes Mildew-resistant interior enamel Control RH during cure Minor scuffs on existing latex Often no Same-system topcoat Confirm existing is latex with alcohol test
Application Tips for a Factory-Smooth Finish
- Tip size & technique: For doors, a fine-finish roller (4–6″, 3/16–1/4″ nap) + light back-brush on profiles gives a sprayed-look result without overspray.
- Thin, controlled coats: Two to three thin coats > one heavy coat.
- Dry/recoat discipline: Follow the can. Humidity extends recoat times—don’t rush.
- De-tack window: Avoid closing freshly painted doors for 24–48 hours; use door bumpers to prevent sticking.
- Final cure: Most waterbornes achieve service hardness in days and full cure in 2–4 weeks. Be gentle with cleaning until then.
Common Mistakes That Cause Peeling
- Skipping bonding primer over oil
- Inadequate deglossing (glossy areas left shiny)
- Painting in high humidity with poor airflow
- Using silicone-contaminated surfaces (furniture polish, aerosol residue)
- Heavy coats that skin over and trap solvent/water
FAQ
Do I have to sand to bare wood?
No. You need to remove gloss, not the entire coating—unless there’s failure. Feather sand peels and repair, then prime.
Can I just use “paint + primer in one”?
Not over oil. You still need a true bonding primer made for slick, previously oil-based surfaces.
Will latex stick long-term in Florida humidity?
Yes—if you clean, degloss, bond-prime, and cure under controlled RH. We do this every week in Pinellas.
Ready to Upgrade Old Oil Enamel the Right Way
At Legacy Applications, we convert aging oil-based trim and doors to premium waterborne finishes that look sprayed, stay bright, and resist Florida humidity. Our craftsmen clean, degloss, bond-prime, and finish with the right enamel for each room—and pace cure so doors don’t stick and edges stay crisp.
Book your free consultation today, and get a room-by-room plan for surfaces, products, and schedule—tailored to your Pinellas County home.